PUBLISHED
December 19, 2024
Music merchandise has long been an essential element of artist branding, with fans flocking to concerts and online stores to grab items ranging from t-shirts to tote bags featuring their favorite artists.
Historically, it’s been a way for fans to show their support beyond the confines of an arena. However, in recent years, merchandise has evolved into much more.
Today, it’s not just about displaying fandom, but also making a fashion statement.
“Merch is experiencing a popularity boom at the moment,” says Katie Devlin, assistant fashion trends editor at Stylus. “It’s a market that is very quickly expanding and evolving. Everything from grocery store tote bags to football jerseys have become wearable signifiers of cultural capital and act as a material manifestation of our tastes and interests.
In music, that means that artists must get more creative and innovative with their merch offerings as consumers continue to seek out exciting sartorial pieces.”
The rise of trendy, relevant tour merchandise has been impossible to ignore. From Charlie XCX’s “Brat” baby tees to Sabrina Carpenter’s sparkling “Please Please Please” makeup mirrors, it’s clear that artists are investing heavily in expanding their brands in creative ways. According to Alexandra Nikolajev, Pinterest’s senior lead of partner marketing, “One of the most successful ways artists can build relationships with their fans is through merch. It is an extension of who that artist is and what they represent creatively.
Byrdie/Charli XCX
When a person has this tangible product, it creates a sense of closeness with that celebrity. Beyond that, merch creates a sense of community with other fans. What happens when you see someone wearing a t-shirt of your favorite band or a sticker on their laptop? It’s an instant conversation starter; it fuels that passion and starts fan clubs, social media engagement, fan cams, ticket sales, etc.”
The Evolution of Merch
The birth of product licensing dates back to the 1950s, marking the beginning of a new era in music and celebrity branding. Henry G. Saperstein, an American film producer, worked with Elvis Presley to create t-shirts, jewelry, jeans, and even soft drinks emblazoned with the King’s face and lyrics.
By the 1960s, musicians like the Grateful Dead were commissioning iconic designs, including the skull and roses logo by Stanley Mouse, which became synonymous with their merchandise. The Rolling Stones followed suit in the 1970s with the now-famous tongue design by John Pasche. Similarly, KISS’s Ace Frehley designed their logo, later appearing on their debut merch collection.
As the ’80s and ’90s ushered in the rise of hip-hop, rap tees adorned with logos and faces of artists became synonymous with hip-hop culture. The 2000s saw pop stars like Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera embracing licensed merchandise across all forms. From the 1950s onward, the merchandise market has only grown, with the Global Licensing Industry Study reporting that global sales of licensed merchandise and services reached $356.5 billion in 2023, up from $340.8 billion in 2022.
“Merch is a really important revenue stream for artists,” Devlin says. “The cost of touring has soared exponentially in recent years, so merch has become an integral part of an artist’s output, and the consumer demand for it is strong.”
A Shift in Consumer Demand
While the music merchandise industry has boomed, a noticeable shift has occurred, particularly in the 2010s and 2020s. Today, fans are no longer satisfied with generic, mass-produced products that feel like cash grabs. They want unique, fashionable items that reflect the authentic style of their favorite artists. “Fans don’t just want tees emblazoned with their idol’s faces or album covers; they want to dress like them and emulate their style, whether that’s their personal style or their on-stage costumes,” says Devlin. “Artists are quickly realizing that creative self-referencing is important for merch outputs, and so are prioritizing fashion-led statement pieces that reference beloved lyrics or speak to fandom in-jokes.”
Byrdie
Musicians like Kanye West (now Yé) are renowned for pushing the boundaries of tour merchandise, with fashion-forward pieces such as the Yeezus tour tees. Other artists like Beyoncé have also tapped into the power of high-end merch, offering artistic coffee table books for her Renaissance and Cowboy Carter albums. “Merch should represent a celebrity’s public persona,” says Nikolajev. “The fans need to believe that the merch reflects the artist and that they had some creative input into the design, style, and functionality.”
Gen Z and the New Wave of Merch
Today’s artists, especially those from Gen Z, are adding their own flair to branded merchandise. Billie Eilish, for instance, offers oversized pieces like baggy t-shirts and hoodies, reflecting her signature style. Olivia Rodrigo’s merchandise lineup, meanwhile, includes sequin skirts and cropped tanks that embody her pop-punk aesthetic. “I believe there has been a shift in Gen Z’s personal style versus generations prior, and they are opting for a more casual approach to their aesthetic,” says Nikolajev.
The Role of Social Media
Social media has played a crucial role in elevating music merch to its current status. With platforms like TikTok, where fans share their merchandise hauls, the hype surrounding limited-edition items has skyrocketed.
“There’s the growing power of fandom to thank, especially with platforms like TikTok where fans are more connected than ever,” Devlin explains. “Merch can be seen as a status symbol of sorts amongst fans, who vie to get their hands on limited edition pieces or sold-out items.”
Pinterest data further shows the rise in interest, with search results for “Olivia Rodrigo merch” up by 288% and “Billie Eilish poster” up by 95% from July 2023 to July 2024. “The growing interest shows how important it is for artists to continue investing in their community,” says Nikolajev. “Now, more than ever, fans want to feel close to their favorite performer, whether through purchasing merchandise or otherwise.”
What’s Next for Music Merch?
Industry leaders and consumers are excited for the continued evolution of music merchandise. “There is an opportunity here for artists to deepen their relationship with their fans by offering new and improved ways to connect with them,” says Nikolajev. “To me, this shift is a two-way street. It’s not just about the artist hoping to keep up with their fans and, yes, make money while doing it, but it’s also in response to the ways fans are asking for their favorite artists to engage with them.”
Byrdie
With artists like Taylor Swift, Beyoncé, SZA, and the Jonas Brothers recently wrapping up tours, carefully curated merchandise has become an essential part of their offerings. And with upcoming tours from artists like Dua Lipa and Avril Lavigne, the trend shows no signs of slowing down.
Byrdie/ Courtesy of Beyonce
“As artists experiment with new approaches and designs, we’re starting to see them take a more playful, innovative approach to merchandise,” says Devlin. And with exclusivity playing a key role in driving demand, “Exclusivity is the most important factor,” adds Nikolajev. “People like to feel special, so while the scope of merch has expanded for many artists, there is still a hook for fans when there are limited quantities.”
